Harriet: D22 2019-2-28約旦 Wadi Rum瓦地倫沙漠

昨晚透過旅館訂了前往Wadi Rum的小巴，6:00大清早就會到旅館接人。下樓前，先到餐廳，因來不及坐下吃，取得允許後，帶些吃的走。我是第一人上車，沿路到各旅館接客，滿坐。每人收費8JOD。

▲Wadi Rum visitor center遊客中心，約8:00抵達。這兒有洗手間，景區售票處；持Jordan Pass，門票免費

接著從遊客中心進入Bedouin Village貝度因村，司機會根據乘客所參加的沙漠團，送到該團的基地聯絡處。如果沒有，先前在車上，負責收錢的人詢問得知後，就會協助湊團，當時我搭的小巴就有乘客，當場參團。後來我遊沙漠時碰到台灣來的自助行男子，告訴我他也是當場參團，價錢極其便宜。所以，看似若沒有事先預訂，也不須慌張

▲Bedouin Village 貝度因村一景

▲Bedouin Directions在村莊的聯絡處，我到時，同團的二位女子已到

預訂Wadi Rum沙漠團

與參加埃及黑白沙漠相同，我事前找了一些沙漠團的名單，以電子郵件撒出去詢價。我的行程較特別，沙漠住一晚，隔天(3/1)一早需趕赴Wadi Araba Aqaba border邊境管制區，因為3/1是星期五安息日，由Eilat艾拉特前往耶路撒冷的末班巴士是13:00，我希望能趕搭10:00那班車，因為10:00若沒趕上，要等3小時後，13:00才有車。也就是說必須一早就得離開沙漠，這早早離開，當然得付出高昂費用

Bedouin Directions的報價

Arrival: 28th February 2019. 1 Person. ON the BUS from PETRA at 8.30 am. Meeting Point: Guest/ Rest House, Rum Village

SHARED TOUR (Group of 2 People - I will write if more people book to join). Please note the rates can change last minute if people change their plans, and the rates payable will be based on the number of people who actually take the tour.

ONE VEGETARIAN (+ no green or red pepper, onion, garlic)

Once you have arrived we will get organised and then when you are ready you will head into the desert by Jeep to take my Mehedi Special Jeep tour. The tour finishes at the camp after sunset. Dinner is served after sunset.

Shared tour - 2 people: Mehedi Special Jeep Tour inc lunch: 40JD

One night in the Camp inc dinner & breakfast: 25JD

Departure: 1st March: We will leave the camp early at 5.30 or 6 am (just after) to take you back to the village. A taxi will be arranged to take you to the border, please pay the driver 30JD in cash, many thanks. The drive is about 1 hour.

Early morning transfer fee: 20JD

Total: 85JD

The 5JD p.p entrance fee to Wadi Rum is NOT included. Drinks (Bottled Water & Bedouin Tea) ARE included.

Mehedi Saleh是以上報價的聯絡人，報價單內容鉅細靡遺，除了張貼的上面部分外，還有沒張貼的細節部分，落落長，而且價格也有細目，我看了很感動，信任感油然而生，即使他的價格並非所有訪價中最優惠，最終還是選擇這家Bedouin Directions。報價共85JOD，其中的清晨處理費20 JOD，折合台幣近900元，讓我頗覺納悶，為何索價如此高?為此詢問Mr. Mehedi Saleh，他回覆這20 JOD的價格並非入他的口袋，而是營區的人要求，他只能照辦報價。換句話說，Mr. Mehedi Saleh是統包的角色。後來，參團的人數由2人增加到3人，以及夜宿的帳篷多1人，他各減5 JOD，總價降為75 JOD。說實在，我喜歡這種將價錢細目分列清楚的人。

Bedouin Directions

www.wadirumjeeptours.com

mobile (outside Jordan): + 962 776886481
mobile (inside Jordan) : 0776 886481

Linked In: Mehedi Saleh Al-Heuwaitat

Facebook: Mehedi Personal: Bedouin Directions / Business Page: Bedouin Directions

Twitter: BedouinWadiRum

Wadi Rum瓦地倫沙漠
據說三千多萬年前大洪水流過約旦切割出大地塹，岩縫中的水份經過晝夜溫差的熱漲冷縮作用後，侵蝕成千奇百怪之景色

Wadi Rum瓦地倫沙漠，俗稱月亮山，從2011年起成了UNESCO世界遺產，這裡有獨特的天然地形、Nabataean納巴泰王國或更早的古銘文(以前介紹過的香料城市馬姆謝特就是納巴泰人的城市)，以及英國將軍阿拉伯的勞倫斯曾經來過這裡。

在Bedouin Directions基地會見了Mr. Mehedi Saleh，一位溫文儒雅的貝都因人，連講話語氣都是斯文氣質。約略閒聊20分鐘，一切就緒後，09:30左右便上吉普車出發。

Bedouin Directions行程表 (附在Mr. Mehedi Saleh的報價上)

at each stop you have the opportunity to hike and scramble, and explore in your own time:

1. Lawrence Spring Walk up through rocks and boulders to find the water (and a lovely fig tree to rest under). During spring time you are greeted by the heady smell of herbs.. The view across the Wadi from here is legendary! Optional one hour hike

2. Khazali Canyon This canyon was once used by the local Bedouin to rest in the shade, especially in the hot summer. You can easily imagine how it would have looked with Bedouin tents, family's resting, drinking tea, and children playing. You can find on the canyon walls many ancient rock inscriptions (See if you can spot the inscriptions of feet, and the Orynx). 15 minute hike

3. Red Sand Dunes This area is very beautiful with many differing colour's of rock and sand. You can climb up the sand dune for the wonderful view at the top. Then we like to jump off it & run down it (some silly people also like to roll down it!). 10/15 minute hike

4. Anfishieh Inscriptions Rock inscriptions on the Anfishieh Jebel from the Thamudic and Nabatean periods. Inscriptions

5. House of Lawrence a Nabatean structure that Lawrence of Arabia according to hearsay he used during the Great Arab Revolution to store weapons. But without lingering on the possible academia of this site there is a wonderful view from here.. Archaeological interest/ viewpoint

6. Around about now: Lunch We find a beautiful and quiet place to rest and enjoy some food which your guide will prepare for you:

7. Burdah Arch This natural rock bridge is set high up on the mountain. So on your tour you will just look at it from a distance… we hope you will have time to stay in Wadi Rum and climb it with us on another day. Viewpoint

8. Um Frouth Arch For some scrambling (or scrambling watching). This is a natural rock bridge, created by many years of water and wind. You can climb to the top… as long as you are not afraid of heights! 10 minute scramble

9. Small Sand Dune There is a wonderful view across the red desert to the white desert from here & this is the best dune for those jumping photographs. 10 minute walk & viewpoint

10. "The Chicken" a unique 2 legged rock in a beautiful location. We often enjoy the sunset from here or stop 9 as they are located in the best position for sunset viewing. Viewpoint

11. To the Camp: Enjoy a delicious Bedouin dinner, the stars and the night in the desert. In the camp we have Bedouin tents, with mattresses and blankets. We have toilets (two Western) and two shower's (cold water/ sun warmed). We have a cozy main tent with a fire for sitting and relaxing in. The camp is in the white desert in a unique and beautiful location, secluded and away from any other tourist camps.

1. Lawrence Spring勞倫斯之泉

▲為紀念阿拉伯的勞倫斯才改命名為勞倫斯之泉

▲勞倫斯之泉的源頭在山腰處，同團的二位女子攀登上去一探究竟

▲我在司機的指引下，在附近的岩壁，看到了刻畫

▲當天延續昨天陰霾的天氣，甚至風勢更強，氣溫也就更低。看看停在勞倫斯之泉的吉普車車隊，便來沙漠的遊客還真不少

▲有遊客騎駱駝在這一片紅色沙漠漫遊

▲勞倫斯之泉周遭景觀

2. Red Sand Dunes沙丘

▲紅色沙丘，沙子很軟，坡度又陡，爬上去寸步難行，超累的

▲沙丘的弧線

▲在沙丘上，望向遠處，遠方在微光下，恍若異世界現身，好不真實

並沒有滑沙，若有提供板子，就好了

3. Al Khazali Canyon峽谷健行

▲吉普車停在灌木叢外，我們得走這一段紅沙地

▲走在前面的是同團二位女子

▲難得看到沙漠裡開花的植物

▲Al Khazali Canyon峽谷入口

▲峽谷岩壁上的刻畫，對我言，無字天書。但除我駐足拍照外，無一遊客正視，儘往峽谷內疾走

[註：這些文字來自不同的年代與文明的阿拉伯文字(Nabatean, Thamoud, 古老伊斯蘭文）；這是後來在網路看到有網誌如是說]

▲與埃及黑白沙漠截然不同的沙漠顏色，紅通通

▲就是前面這塊小面積，看似不穩的石塊，讓腿短的我裹足不前。在沙丘認識的台灣年輕人一個箭步跨過去，也沒能拉我一把

▲我就處在原地好一會，望前興嘆

▲二位團友折回，問她們前面可有好看，她們說就是一灘水，所以我打消往前的念頭，就此原路返回

4. Little Rock Bridge小拱橋

▲小拱橋左端，有人站立的地方，可由拱橋走過去

▲雖然我是走上去了，但上面風太大了，站都站不穩了，哪敢走過去

▲只站在橋邊觀景

▲除了走上去，走過小拱橋探險觀景外，還可以直走到高處觀景

▲同團二位女子又走在前面

▲走到高處，眺望壯闊的美景

▲同一角度又拍了一次，但短暫的光線撒在岩石上，呈現出不一樣的景觀

5. House of Lawrence 勞倫斯的房子

▲這是當年阿拉伯革命時，Lawrence勞倫斯用來儲存武器場所，現只剩一堵牆

▲牆後廢墟

▲在附近晃晃

▲站在高處觀景

▲堅強的小灌木，在缺水，風沙肆虐下，依然存活下來

6. 走走不知名的景點

▲這段十幾分鐘的健行路，不知其名稱，一樣是沙地，但有小紫花、小白花冒出頭

▲吉普車在另一頭等候

午餐在司機父親的帳棚內，司機超健談，談他父親習慣在沙漠生活，而他自己則各半，一半日子在沙漠，一半日子在村鎮。也談到約旦政府禮遇貝都因人，他們在沙漠經營旅遊業的營收，政府並沒有收稅。記得當時風強，有如沙塵暴，幾乎將帳篷吹倒。午餐進行快2小時才結束，然後繼續下午的三個行程

7. 蘑菇岩石

▲風化成蘑菇造型的岩石一支獨秀的矗立著

▲周圍景觀

8. Al Mahama Cayon峽谷大健行

▲先經過軟質的紅沙地

▲峽谷入口

▲峽谷內的風是正面吹來，舉步維艱，而且冷爆了

▲走出峽谷另一個出入口

▲吉普車在此等候，想想若司機安排我們從這出入口進入峽谷，不就可免逆風而行的窘境

9. Um Frouth Arch (Rock Bridge)

▲須爬這滑不溜丟，無著力點的岩壁，才能登上拱橋。同團女子也想奮力一搏，但半途而廢，退敗下來

▲登橋不成，便改直走到高處看景

▲反身看來時路

▲岩壁特寫

▲在橋旁的茶棚喝茶取暖

離開Um Fruth rock bridge後，遠遠瞧見第三座的拱橋Burdah Rock Bridge，僅驚鴻一瞥而已。時間不過16:00，但所有行程已近尾聲，當時有如沙塵暴，飛沙鋪天蓋地漫飛，景況很嚇人。我們是坐在吉普車內，有的車隊，遊客是坐在車後露天的車斗上，在這種風大又刺骨的氣候急駛在沙漠上，鐵定冷死，慶幸自己能坐在車內。